Havelock is the largest island in Ritchie's archipelago, and the most intensively cultivated, settled like any in the region by Bengali refugees after Partition. Thanks to its regular ferry connection with the capital, it is also visited to greater numbers than anywhere else in the Andamans. In Peak season, as many as three hundred tourists may beholed up here, and at sun times Havelock's much-photographed Radhnagar beach, often touted as the most beautiful in India, can feel overwhelmed.

On the plus side, the boat journey here from Neill, skirting a string of uninhabited islets with shadowy views of Middle Andaman to the west, is wonderful, and wildlife, both on land and in the sea, remains abundant despite intensive settlement and deforestation.

HOW TO GET THERE

Havelock's main jetty is on the north side of the island, adjoining the village known as Havelock. If one has booked a room at the ANIICDO Dolphin Yatri Niwas, 5-km south along the east coast, then one will be whisked away in the hotel minibus. Otherwise, rent a moped or cycle for a few days and head straight inland through the bazaar, turning right at the first T-junction one will come towards Radhnagar, 12-km southwest. An intermittent bus service also covers the route.